Every day, patients (mostly women) have questions about skin care. Sadly, one's education does not provide the answers and there are few to no good studies on this subject. A small number of dermatologists have good ideas. These are mostly women who have thought about this area and tried lots of products themselves. 
Years ago, we heard the phrase that cosmetics companies sell "Hope in a Bottle." So, it was with some degree of surprise that an inspired patient told me recently of a product she has used called "Hope in a Jar" which is manufactured by a company called Philosophy. Their product line is interesting -- the best named I have ever come across.
Here is a helpful article on the basics of "skin care" from the NY Times. Download basic_skin_care.pdf
A colleague, Dr. Brenda Dintiman from Fairfax, Virginia liked the article and sent these useful comments: "The article in the NY times on cosmetic minimalism definitely intrigues me. Since I started dermatology in 1988, almost 20 year ago, there has been an explosion of skin care products, cosmeceuticals and stores that carry skin care products. In addition to the numerous cosmetic counters in the department stores, there are stores totally devoted to skin care and makeup lines, such as Sephora, that are very successful and now the cornerstones of malls.
Although minimalism fits my needs, personality and skin type, I am obviously not the majority. When asked over the years what my skin care regimen was, it was almost embarrassing to admit that I was a "water" girl not even a "soap and water" girl. Maybe it came from my years as a student where self-care was low on my priority list. I gently washed my face, using a little soap, applied sunscreen in the summer, and wore minimal to no makeup-- mascara, lip gloss and some blush. Of course, in my heart I knew that I had been blessed by my mother with low maintenance, "good" skin" and that many people were not.
I was trained the same way as other dermatologists and instructed to recommend dove soap, sunscreen and moisturizer from the drug store and that toners, astringents and any creams with placenta were a waste of time. Yet, as time passed and many patients came to me wanting more specific recommendations and my own skin aged, I started to pay closer attention to what was available. At the same time that the vitamin C products, retinol products, alpha hydroxy lines were developed, the over the counter product companies such as Neutrogena, Oil of Olay, Purpose, Aveeno changed their lines and there was a product explosion.
So what does it all mean? How do I incorporate the patient's desire for skin care guidance, the struggle between research and anecdotal evidence and my own personal views on the skin care lines available?
I still believe in minimalism with a little expansion of the regimen. I listen to my patients and get feedback from them on what things irritate their skin especially if they have acne or rosacea or eczema. Then, I provide them with guidance from my favorite list. Unfortunately, if they are told to just use soap and water and some over the counter moisturizer, they will be seduced by a $300.00 line and I will have to incorporate this into their acne care. As a result, I give them guidance.
Keep it simple. The less products the better is my philosophy.
Don't expect over the counter products to do what medicines, such as retinoids, topical antibiotics and topical steroids, do.
There are no miracle products but some do make your skin appear fresher, brighter and less dry.
Here are 4 of my favorite skin care lines.
Neutrogena
Oil of Olay
Vanicream
Hylunia
I recommend the foaming gentle cleanser by Neutrogena, the SPF 30 moisturizer for year round, SPF 55 sunscreen for spring and summer.Men will wear the SPF 30 moisturizer since it is light and low fragrance.
I also like their makeup line and shaving products.
People have problems with the healthy skin moisturizer because it often stings.
Oil of Olay has gentle cleansers.
I like their REgenerist product. Who knows why but it has a silky moisturizing feel on the skin?
I love Vanicream. It is a small company and you can get their products online.
It is fragrance, paraben, preservative free and great for eczema patients, irritant dermatitis patients, patients with undetermined allergies to products.
The liquid cleanser is great.
The moisturizer comes in a light cream or heavier moisturizer.
There is a shampoo and conditioner and a bath oil.
Great, cost effective line.
And last but not least is the Hylunia line.
It is also preservative and fragrance and masking fragrance free. Designed for children with eczema.
Great for sensitive skin patients, acne patients so they can tolerate their retin A and differin and benzoyl peroxide and my rosacea patients swear by it.
Last but not least, I will add a vitamin C serum a patient really wants to try one of the cosmeceuticals. There are a few others but again I try to keep it simple and cost effective, yet give specific recommendations because they will go elsewhere and buy anyway.